Mixing a Chromium Oxide Green Hue

Chromium Oxide Green (PG17) is an extremely opaque, lightly granulating single-pigment dull green. It’s a nice color for desert plants, but not the only nice color, and I haven’t found another use for it. So, I’ve been wondering if I want to remove it from my extended palette. I sometimes feel when I’m making color spotlights that I accidentally mix a hue. So let’s try mixing a hue on purpose.

Mixes

Phthalo Blue/Green + Earth Yellow

Chromium Oxide Green hue mixes

For this test page, I mixed various earth yellows with either Phthalo Turquoise (PB16) or Phthalo Green BS (PG7), depending on which I thought looked more like PG17. Actual PG17 is in the upper left, for comparison.

  • PB16 + Naples Yellow Deep (PBr24): Too bright and rich to be an accurate hue, but I really like this color. It also has the advantage of being opaque, like original PG17, thanks to the PBr24, which is also opaque.
  • PB16 + Monte Amiata Natural Sienna (PBr7): Closer to the right color, but much different in handling. Transparent, and more granulating. Doesn’t work up as dark a masstone.
  • PG7 + Raw Sienna (PBr7): Duller Raw Sienna needed bright PG7 as a mixer so as not to be too blue, gray, or brown. But althogether I find this a bit too bright green, and neither dark nor yellow enough.
  • PG7 + Lunar Earth (PBr11): Absolutely wrong. Lunar Earth is so granulating and color-separating that you really can’t use it to mix.
  • PB16 + WN Gold Ochre (PY42): This slightly orangey version of Yellow Ochre mixes the best hue yet, though it has a tendency to cauliflower and does not get quite as dark.

More with Naples Yellow Deep

Since I liked the handling and opacity of the PBr24 mix so much, but found the hue too bright, I decided to try mixing PBr24 with other blues and greens to see if I could get a closer hue match.

Chromium Oxide Green hue mixes with PBr24
  • Phthalo Blue RS (PB15): This is kind of a cool mix. I mixed it on the page and you can see bits that are more blue and more yellow. The hue isn’t too bad. Maybe not quite yellow enough overall.
  • Ultramarine Blue GS (PB29): Much too gray/silver, but also a really cool color that is, if anything, a better hue for desert plants IMO.
  • DV Cobalt Turquoise (PB36): Far too bright. It’s too yellow because I added a lot of PBr24 try to dull it down; it was also a problem to have too much Cobalt Turquoise since it just looked neon. There’s no way to mix this anywhere close to PG17. I think if I want to use Cobalt Turquoise, I have to mix it with something much browner like Raw Sienna or even Burnt Sienna.
  • DS Indanthrone Blue (PB60): A bit more dull and golden-brown than PG17, but also a pretty realistic color.
  • Cerulean Blue (PB36): Cooler than the original with color-separating spots of blue granulation. Again, not right but pretty – prettier, I think.
  • Perylene Green (PBk31): One of the closer mixes, though still too dull. One of the only mixes that gets dark enough.

Conclusion

Some of my more favored mixes don’t look too much like the original, but that’s okay! Ultimately, it doesn’t matter if I can color-mix the exact hue – which I would have mixed cooler or warmer anyway – as much as it matters to have some neat, opaque, dull-gray mixes in my pocket.

2 thoughts on “Mixing a Chromium Oxide Green Hue”

  1. Tl;Dr: PBr24 is amazing. (I love the texture it brings.)

    …unlike lunar earth. I have a couple of PBr11s (I think Kim Crick recommends them to make various primatek dupes) and I can never get them to do anything I approve of. This coming from a person who tends to enjoy unnecessary granulation!

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